Insulating attic floor (top of ceiling)
Warm air rises and so do your utility bills all winter long. If you notice any frost on the shingle nails poking through your attic roof deck, or see frost on the underside of your roof, you are losing big money! Natural updraft will cause any hole or cut in a ceiling vapour barrier to allow air to be sucked out of your home, and into the attic like a chimney. Even several small holes (ie. light receptacles, wiring holes, drywall screws) can add up to tremendous air loss.
Attic insulation installation with our insulating spray foam is a beneficial procedure that can prevent this air loss. Spraying the floor minimizes the surface area you spray, minimizes the amount of foam needed, and minimizes your utilities because you’re only heating and cooling the area you live in. In other words, you’re not paying to heat and cool the additional square footage in your attic that you don’t use. If you have existing attic insulation, our spray foam installer will commence with insulation removal and then apply 2-3 inches of closed cell attic spray foam insulation. This attic insulation installation creates a seamless air barrier that makes your other insulation work MUCH better. Plus the total air/moisture seal and high R-value that Foametix polyurethane spray foam insulation provides, helps retain the energy inside your living space where you have paid to keep it saving you hundreds or thousands of dollars annually in utility bills by insulating attic.
Attic insulation installation with Foametix spray foam insulation is a great solution for any home but especially for older homes lacking a correct ceiling vapour barrier, or those homes with recessed lighting fixtures.
Insulating attic rafters (underside of roof deck)
If you’re using the attic for living space or have a vaulted ceiling, then you want to use insulating spray foam on the underside of the roof for insulating attic. Older 1 ½ and 1 ¾ story houses commonly have this type of roof and were usually not insulated in the ceiling, or were insulated with a loose fill product that has long since settled to the bottom away from where it needs to be. These types of roofs in older homes were commonly lacking a vapour barrier of any kind!
During this application of attic insulation installation, the drywall or plaster of the ceiling needs to be completely removed in order to spray the foam into the cavity during. A less disruptive method is to remove the roof decking when shingling, which usually is required anyways on homes older than 1965. We would then commence with insulation removal that is left in the cavities and then spray down into the cavity prior to resheeting and shingling.
Finally, with attic insulation installation using polyurethane spray foam insulation, you’re sealing off the attic fully to make it unvented. You’ll want to reroute anything that needs to be vented outside, like a kitchen or bath exhaust fan that dumps into the attic. If space permits, adding fibreglass or Roxul batting after the foam cures will raise your R-value even more, while protecting these products from their usual moisture issues.